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tv lcd 48\" motorized lift down ceiling system

by:Demo     2020-08-19
Hello everyone, first of all, I apologize for my bad English. . .
Google Translate is a little helpful to me.
The items I want to show today are worth recording because we have so much time and all of them are from giving my bedroom a new look, A nice 48-inch LCD TV with wallpaper and space to start with is nice.
The main problem is that I don\'t have room for 22, so I want to think about an alternative solution outside the box, making a fake ceiling, placing a TV and a mechanism driven by an actuator.
Before designing, I went through the network and looked at the existing solutions at a low cost.
After about a week of research, I am sure that the most economical solution is to build it myself, because the 3,000 euro motor mount is definitely not the budget I have set for myself.
I also found a solution in China for 500 euros, but did not convince me in terms of stability and reliability.
Perhaps the hardest part is to design a mechanism for the TV to drop vertically to the first few centimeters and then tilt to the bed.
For the mechanism of the project, I used a software called Linkage2 to simulate leverage and movement.
More information: hide the TV on the ceiling, you need a structure that can accommodate all the mechanisms, and it looks good at the same time, last but not least, it coordinates with the decoration.
First of all, you have to determine the size of the TV and then make a size adjustment for all the components.
I decided to install an LCD 48 \", so with the 3D modeling software, I set the wide size of the line on the ceiling and connected it with tape to see if everything was done proportionally.
Immediately after informing my wife that I would do the work and get his approval, I started the work.
I hope you find this tutorial interesting.
As I mentioned in the introduction, the complicated thing is to design a scissors mechanism that meets my needs.
Once the TV is recovered, it must be as close to the ceiling as possible, and at the same time it must drop and tilt a certain size and angle.
Thanks to the simulation software (Linkage2)
I managed to find a good compromise.
With the link, I got a list of the parts to be cut.
The wooden box I modeled and marked with Rhino 3D.
For those who want to try to simulate the additional mechanism under the source file.
Before starting this work, I want to do a simulation in real life to make sure that the software does its job correctly.
I cut the iron tape 20x5mm and drill the holes as shown in linkage 2.
On the aluminum profile of the prototype, I put all the parts together and tried this mechanism;
Everything is like a simulation!
Now, in order to calculate the force needed to keep the TV, I have got the weight I applied to the mechanism and I found (
By aspect ratio)
To support a weight of about 11 kg, a thrust of at least 80 kg is provided from a linear actuator.
This test is very useful to avoid errors when purchasing the main actuator.
For the type of motion of the lever system, it is not very favorable for the actuator, because in the short stroke, the actuator must complete a longer journey.
For the sake of safety, I bought a linear actuator with 6000 N = 600 kg.
In addition to some boards that implement the box, I will also list the components below that I use to make it work. N.
1 Linear actuator 6000 N (600 kg)
Itinerary 320mm N
2 Linear actuators 1500 N (150 kg)
Travel 150 mmmN. 1 Arduino Uno N.
1 module 4 relay (
Control executive agency 3)N.
1 module 2 relay (
Control 12v power supply and lighting)N.
1 radio remote control 4 channels
1 radio receiver
1 power supply 12 V 30 a n.
I built a mechanism with the rest of your tubular iron.
First I welded the main frame and it will slide the trolley that will trigger the movement.
The sliding slide frame consists of 10 bearings that are securely wrapped on the slide frame and do not need to play the two arms of the slide frame.
The LCD 48 I want to install \"has holes compatible with VESA-
Standard, 400x400mm, so I also built a fixed bracket, and I cut a mid-fiber board in the same size of the TV to simulate a situation close to reality.
Finally, I gave a paint defense.
All iron mechanisms that protect the weld and profile cutting points rust.
In order to accommodate the mechanical installation and the television, only the construction housing is left.
I decided to create a pyramid 2 step, LED spotlight first and electric door open second.
I will build everything with plywood 18mm and for convenience I will build it before the central block and then add half to the outside.
The finished work will be painted with plaster and white paint to make it look like paint on the ceiling.
I will use two 150 kg stroke linear actuators from 150mm for the door of the power supply.
To facilitate my drilling work, a template was assembled with LED Light module wooden strips.
Before fixing the ceiling and finding something wrong, I wanted to simulate all the opening and closing actions several times.
When everything is installed, all the settings I will do will use Arduino to control the synchronous and timing movement of the actuator.
3 with 4 relay control actuators (
1 TV, 2 doors)
When I was with someone else, I managed 2 relay switches for one light, as well as 12V power supply, and I wouldn\'t be on all the time for obvious reasons.
All the electronics will be placed in an open compartment I got in the main building and then closed with a plastic mesh.
The cycle of operation will be the following to turn on the system: I turn on the 12v power to turn on the actuator, open the door needed to open the actuator pause for a few seconds TVSystem turn off: I turn on the actuator to take back the TV pause for a few seconds, it takes a few seconds to get her TV back. It opens the door actuator. I turned the power off 12 VoltI and wrote a sketch (
You can find it below)
Use different functions to control all components and manage the state of the system to avoid conflicts or unforeseen situations.
To fix the mechanism, I have prepared 4 rebar bars for M10 perforated plates.
To mark the holes in the ceiling, I set the template to the ceiling, inserted a plug from the center point of the wall, and then when I was completely relative to the wall, I made the 8 Guide hole diameter. 6mm.
Then I removed the template and finished the hole with diameter.
The whole floor is 40 cm long.
Once the bolts are tightened to the ceiling, I use stainless steel screws and self
The lock nut between the flat wires is inserted into a small copper washer to minimize friction.
It\'s time to tell the truth. . . .
Fix the box with the door, hoping that the holes in the ceiling coincide with the slots on the wood.
With a simple but efficient system, I lifted the box to the ceiling with a help cable and a piece of wood.
I walked into the attic and went up to 20 cm steps and stopped with perforated blocks of wood.
The box was close to the ceiling and repeated the process several times.
Once you reach the top is enough to cut off the cable and replace it with a screw bar, you are done;
No one\'s help, this can also be done by yourself.
Once at the top, I opposite the walls of the room and close all 4 nuts.
It only needs to install small steps with recessed spotlights.
To fix the steps to the body, I made the anchor block and I messed up the first box, which would be the ball of the fill.
At the same time, I cut the part that formed the steps to 45 ° and drilled the epr, and we can cash the spotlight.
Once I installed the four steps, I closed the curtains made of cardboard 10mm.
After the assembly work was completed, I did a lot of grouting to fill in the defects of the material and the holes left by the bolts, and the head of the bolts has sunk by 1mm to allow grouting to fill.
I used the track Sander and paper 100 to scrape it smoothly.
I have never done shaving work at home, so I did it without considering the consequences.
Well the whole room looks like it\'s snowing and when I\'m done I realize that the cabinet sliding doors are not completely closed and the dust is everywhere. . .
My wife has been happy and happy so far. . .
I \'ve always loved decorating the border polystyrene, so I used a less dazzling one.
I did the job with two layers of white walls, waiting for the spotlight TV to be installed and trying to turn the mechanism on and off. . .
Everything is perfect!
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