turn an incandescent torch bulb into a 1w led
There\'s that little screw.
In the light bulb you can get (
At least in my area)are either 2. 5v or 6v.
You can\'t get 6v battery in the torch, 2 1.
5v alkaline battery kill 2.
5v bulb is quite fast.
In addition, the brightness of 2.
5v is very bad.
So with one, now dead, 2.
5v bulb I am going to modify it to run 1w warm white LED.
This involves the change of the torch.
Because I only used two. 5v batteries (
When the new voltage is just over 3 v)
The brightness of the LED is less than half the peak of 3.
8v 300 mA, but still three times or more than three times the incandescent lamp, almost no heat is generated at this low load and no resistance is required.
In the embedded video I made (
I have taken stills for the text tutorial)
The battery was very old and dropped to 2 knots.
78 v, but the LED is still very bright.
This is my first note and if there are any questions, please put them in the comments and I will try to answer them. Parts/tools. . Safety glasses.
Dead incandescent torch bulb2 x 1. 5v batteries .
1w warm white LED.
Soldering iron and tin.
Fine sand paper.
Heat Shrink tube.
Electrical tape. Heat gun . Scissors . Pliers (
Better nose if you have one).
Optional but useful :. Multi-meter .
The \"help hand\" fixture of the crocodile clip and magnifying glass.
I bought a bag of Epistar brands on Ebay a few years ago, 1 w, warm white, LEDs.
They have a nice round fluorescent spot in the middle, not a square fluorescent spot from other brands, so, even if focused through the lens, they have a light pool of traditional shapes.
Their maximum power consumption is 3.
8v and 300 mA, offering 110 lumens, are very bright, they generate reasonable heat at this speed and need to be installed in the heat-sink.
On the other hand, if you run them on 3v3.
They hardly generate heat when the brightness is less than half.
Keep in mind that ordinary incandescent lamps produce 10 lumens per watt, so the LED is still about 4 times bright at this voltage.
Now I am happy to admit that I know very little about all the details of the led current transmission, but I have set it up in the torch for about a year without any problems.
We light up our toilet with two LED lights, series no resistance, v gel battery from month (
So only about 3v per LED)
They have served us for about 3 years so far.
Although the two LEDs are not as bright together as the highest-power LEDs, they still fund the brightness of the 40w LED Light module ball.
This is a very small room and the white walls reflect very well. Onward!
Wrap the bulb with a paper towel and break the glass carefully (photo 1).
I use pliers, but it will work by tapping carefully with a hammer (photo 2).
Squeeze any rough edges left by the glass with pliers (photo 4).
Cut short length heat shrink tube and install it on the top edge of the bulb to insulated the bare metal of the screw
From the bottom of the two wires supporting the filament (photo 1).
Heat with a hot gun from the bottom of the bulb so the pipe can grab the metal base.
If you heat it from above (
Where was the glass)
When the tube shrinks, it pulls itself down from the bulb.
In the second photo, you can see that the pipe begins to revolve around the metal base of \"bulb;
The hot fire gun is right below the camera.
It should look like this now.
Cut off the remains of tiny filaments (photo 1)
And bend the support line horizontally (photo 2).
Then polish the end of the wire beautifully (photo 3).
Clean contacts on wires and LED with methylation spirits (De-Natural alcohol)(photo 1).
Welding the end of the bulb wire and the * top * face of the LED contact (photos 2 & 3).
Also clean the small radiator under the LED with Metho, so you can put a square piece of tape on it to prevent the contact from Short Circuit (photo 1).
Then fold the contacts under the LED (photo 2).
Check the electrical polarity of your torch.
The way I set up the battery in the torch means that the base contact is \"negative \".
Find which wire on \"bulb\" is connected to the bottom contact and which wire is connected to the metal body.
In this case, the lower wire in the second photo is attached to the bottom contact and is \"negative \".
The Led can only work under a power supply running in one direction.
One of the two contacts on the LED will have something different to identify as contacts.
You will need to weld this to the wire on the \"bulb\" that will connect to the torch ve.
In the first picture, I was welding-
In the second photo, ve and ve.
The third photo shows the Test circuit to make sure the LED works.
Then place another heat shrink tube around the LED to strengthen the unit and prevent the contact from short circuit on the torch reflector (
It carries ve current in this case).
When the heat shrinkage is still warm and soft, make sure that the LED is well square with the bulb base.
This will be quite safe once cooled.
Then test the circuit again.
I put some heat shrink tubes on the chin of a pair of pliers to help me screw in the \"led/bulb\" and protect the reflector of the torch (photo 1).
When you start to feel nervous when you screw in, make sure that the pliers catch the bottom of the \"bulb\" instead of the LED as this can cause the wire to break (photo 2).
The LED didn\'t LED Light module up the first time I installed it, it was because I shrunk the original heat too long and interrupted the circuit (photo3).
So I carefully cut the length of the tube by about 1/2 (
But still leave enough to hold onto the base of the bulb firmly)(photo4). Success.
Of course, the LED only glows in the front hemisphere, while the incandescent LED Light module glows in the entire sphere.
Therefore, different reflector and lens, or no reflector and lens, will produce different results.
Using the \"bull\'s eye\" lens, this WW1 Trench torch is very good at collecting LED lights and focusing forward, several times brighter than the original bulb, and has a stronger response to Morse code function. Have fun!
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