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{the led lightbulb}

by:Demo     2020-08-28
We try to save because of the shortage of energy.
Although we are trying to buy the greenest electronics and turn them off as much as possible, we still find ourselves with incandescent lamps that waste energy or those mercury-contaminated CFLs.
Thought of a direct solution to switch to the LED bulb, and then hit this solution because the LED spots are still extremely expensive, it would cost a lot of money to convert all existing fixtures into this technology.
But this is the structure, we can do it ourselves!
What we\'ll end up with is one of the most energy-efficient bulbs you \'ve ever had in the middle, made at an amazing low cost.
This will save you $100 throughout the life of the bulb;
So, please feel free to write me a check to calculate the amount!
The cost of the Led is so high that you have to know a huge supplier.
I ordered most of the supplies from two main sources of LED Shoppe and all electronics.
I found these suppliers to be the cheapest and most reliable.
I ordered a lot of supplies as I was going to produce a couple of bulbs of different sizes which made the supplies cheaper.
Here is a list of things I need for this project: led-
I used 5mm led.
As long as you increase the calculation accordingly, you can change the type of LEDs.
Bridge rectifier
Convert AC to DC. Perfboard -
The size of the perfboard you purchased will depend on the size of the bulb you want to create.
Soldering iron and accessories-
The cheapest soldering iron is fine. Base Plug -
The product has an ordinary bulb base at one end and an ordinary household socket at the other end.
There will definitely be your local hardware store. Cable Ties -
The question here is not whether you have them, but how many hundred you have. Cardboard -
This is the main support for all parts of the bulb. Wax Paper -
I use silicon chip cookies (
Something blue)instead.
You can use almost any material with high temperature tolerance and non-conductive properties, but I find these materials to be the best material for this work.
Bit and little bit
I\'m using a 1/8 drill. X-
ACTO knife and overall punching machine
These items will be used to prepare insulating materials.
Wire and PVC tube-
These are needed to connect the base of the bulb to the rest of the Assembly. Multimeter -
To check the conductivity and make sure there are no shorts, I always put the multimeter at hand.
Now, like any project with electricity, certain calculations are necessary.
While these equations seem a bit dangerous, I can assure you that it is very simple.
Before starting the calculation, make sure that the supplier provides the detailed specifications of the leds. FV (Forward voltage)-
This is the voltage used by each individual LED.
It is expressed as a range, so there are minimum and maximum values. AC MAX/MIN -
The AC power supply is not always constant voltage and the whole house is not always the same.
Actually, there\'s a scope here.
In the United States, the range is 110 kilometers. 125VAC.
This range is 220 in other countries-250VAC. EQUATIONS[AC MAX]X 1. 4 = AA / [FV MAX]= [LEDs]CHECK[AC MIN]X 1. 4 = BB / [LEDs]
= CC indicates the forward voltage and must be within the range.
Your end result represents the number of led you can place in each series.
Think of this as a basic unit.
The total amount of LEDs on the bulb must be a multiple of this number.
In each \"unit\", the LEDs are connected plus or minus in order to allocate the voltage.
All series can then be connected together, from positive to positive, from negative to negative.
Here is an example of my calculation.
11X1. 4 = 175175 / 3.
8 = 46 check110 X 1.
4 = 154154/46 = 3.
20178c is in range. (exhale)
The insulation consists of two layers.
The silicon/wax paper layer is located right at the top of the circuit board and is in direct contact with the circuit.
The second layer is made of cardboard and is located above the first layer.
This layer is the physical center of the bulb, and in addition to the insulation, it connects all the components together.
I extracted the cardboard I used from the binder because I found it to be good and dense.
After getting the cardboard, place the pieces of the perfboard on top and track their profile/holes.
I found that the cardboard burrs are not allowed to be drilled with your reverse drill bit.
When it comes to cutting, I use an ordinary kitchen knife. (I cheated)
In the end, I drilled a small whole.
The center and two holes, about inches apart, are used for installation on both sides.
The second piece of insulation is made of silicone or wax paper.
Both work fine, but if you use wax paper and have to have a smooth side facing circuit, you have to use at least two layers.
Track performance boards as before, but cut with regular scissors.
As for the whole, I use a special hole punch.
If you don\'t, then you can simply cut a small hole with scissors.
Except for the whole of each corner, let a little off-
Center, corresponding to the center on another layer of insulation, used for wire passage.
Its base is the reason for making it a regular bulb;
It can be installed in any existing fixture.
However, you do have slight freedom in the base, as all fixtures are not created equally.
The purpose of the PVC channel is to accommodate excess wires and give a little extra length if the fixture is needed.
The one shown is quite long for a particular fixture.
The procedures for making the base are as follows: 1. Drill Holes -
Make two small diagonal holes on each side of the base plug, located between the pins.
To ensure that these mounting holes do not interfere with the function, make sure that the holes start from the outer edge and are slightly inward. 2. Strip and Tin -
Strip the wire and twist the wire together.
Apply solder to both ends. (
We call it \"tinning \")3. Insert -
Insert the wire into the hole and fix it with a small amount of plastic.
You can also weld them with very good tips I don\'t have if you want. 4. Check -
Set the multimeter to diode check mode.
Touch each multimeter probe to each wire end;
Nothing should happen.
If your multimeter beeps, then you should check your work.
Now, keep one probe at the end of the wire and touch the other probe to the contact on the exact seat.
The conductivity should be shown on one, not on the other.
Repeat this operation for another wire. 5. PVC -
Cut the length of the PVC pipe you want and drill holes in it.
Connect the base plug to one end with a cable tie.
We will install the board to another piece later.
I divided the welding into the following steps: 1. Plan -
Place LEDs in their approximate position.
You will find yourself switching the position of the LEDs in order to fit the LEDs into the perfboard, so this step is critical.
Make sure you follow your calculations and use your results to determine how to place LEDs.
Keep in mind that in each series they will be positively associated with negativity and all series will be positively associated with positivity and negatively associated with negativity.
For example, I connect 46 LEDs together, from positive to negative, and then connect all the positive and negative at both ends.
At the end of the planning step, I took a photo to remember where I put everything. 2. Place -
Insert one line of LEDs at a time, make sure you pay attention to the polarity.
Keep in mind that the longer leads of the LED are always positive leads. 3. Bend -
Bend each lead to an approximate welded joint and cut off the excess lead. 4. Solder -
Take one joint at a time and make sure that each joint is doing well because you are working under high pressure.
Heat the joint and apply welding between iron and lead.
The initial solder is then used for heating and the solder is moved to cover the rest of the joint.
There are a lot of online videos to help you if you need further help welding. 5. Snip -
Clamp the extra leads to ensure that the welding joints are gentle.
Now that all the individual components are ready, we can start to assemble the entire bulb.
Pass the wire through the center of the two-layer insulation.
Weld the wire to the rectifier lead (labeled \"~\")
Cut off the extra part.
Make sure everything is welded correctly before you close it.
Install the PVC pipe to the cardboard with cable tie belt.
Then, slowly push the wires into the pipe, put all the layers of sandwiches together, and secure them with cable ties in each corner.
After checking that nothing is exposed, insert the bulb to check if it works.
Like the rest of the project, be very careful in this Test.
Both physically and emotionally, I am not responsible for any harm. =]
Let energy conservation begin!
When you\'re done, you can screw it into any fixture and start saving immediately.
I put some in various parts of my home and plan to do more in the next few weeks.
Although I did the project with the bulb method, you can just make the top and connect them together (
Don\'t forget the fuse there).
That\'s what I\'m going to do, put it on my desk.
In addition, these are absolutely perfect for embedded lighting.
If you want to know, I have summarized the following fees for you: small (46 LEDs):Perfboard: $1. 00LEDs: $0. 05 X 46 = $2. 30Wire: $0. 18 X 1/3ft. = $0. 06 rectifier: $0. 50 plugs: $1. 00Total: $4. 86Medium (92 LEDs):Perfboard: $1. 50LEDs: $0. 05 X 92 = $4. 60Wire: $0. 18 X 1/3ft. = $0. 06 rectifier: $0. 50 plugs: $1. 00Total: $7. 66Large (184 LEDs):Perfboard: $2. 00LEDs: $0. 05 X 184 = $9. 20Wire: $0. 18 X 1/3ft. = $0. 06 rectifier: $0. 50 plugs: $1. 00Total: $12.
As for everything else, I have it.
Of course I like this project and hope you like it too!
Don\'t forget to vote at the top of the page!
A single click will really be appreciated. Thanks!
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