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how to wire trailer lights

by:Demo     2020-08-17
How to wiring video tutorial trailer lights.
So here I have an old trailer that needs some work as well as re-
Wiring the lights
This is a fairly simple setup with no car card lights and no gap lights.
In order to determine what the lights need, please be sure to check with local laws.
To better understand, I provide three different wiring diagrams at the end of the video.
To make this tutorial easier to understand, I will flip the trailer on the side of it so everything is easy to see.
This also makes it easier to work, so I will definitely recommend it if you have a smaller trailer and can do it.
Tools/supplies needed: I have removed the rest of the old wire and I will install everything new except the lights.
About a year ago, LED lights were installed on the trailer.
If paint or welding is required, I would recommend doing so first before installing the new line.
To make this tutorial easier to understand, I will flip the trailer on the side of it so everything is easy to see.
This also makes it easier to work, so I will definitely recommend it if you have a smaller trailer and can do it.
This is a brand new general harness.
This is just a standard 4-Way Connector with ground, parking and signal lights or brake lights.
I believe there are about 25 feet wires that should be enough for this size trailer.
They also provide the vehicle side connector that I don\'t need as the trailer has that connector installed.
As you can see on the back of the package, they usually provide guidelines, so it\'s a good reference guide if you need extra help.
Next I have a 1/4 \"diameter, 25ft length Poly split loom housing to protect the wiring.
Taking into account that the wires will be on the underside of the trailer, exposed to damp, gravel, salt that may be winter, harsh conditions on the road, this is a must, and anything that could damage the insulation of the wires.
In order to secure the wires in the proper position, cable ties can be used, but I would rather have something more durable and cleaner.
You\'ll need to plan where to run the line, and given that it\'s a tilt trailer, I\'ll run it to the center and then it will split into each light behind the trailer.
Try to keep it away from the wheel as most of the road debris will be thrown there.
At the tongue I will put it on the top to avoid any danger and its center depends on which side the vehicle trailer plug comes from.
The top also helps to stay away from the ground and scrub on the road.
I measured the hole and used a scribbled sheet just to lightly mark the paint, not the steel.
Be careful when using a graffiti machine, because this can cause cracks for steel, it is generally not recommended to use on structural parts.
Use the center to punch in to prevent the drill bit from running off.
Start with the center bit first and then finish with the right size bit.
Do the same for other holes.
I\'m trying to get the wire clip a little closer to prevent the wire from getting stuck with anything.
It will also be placed inside the channel, so it will also help to increase protection.
If you have a pipe frame, you can consider running the wires inside.
Since this is a structural part, the small holes do not have much impact on integrity.
The structure becomes weaker when you start cutting big holes on the assembly.
After that, I can route along the side of the tongue because the top of the tongue will lean against the bed.
The wiring also needs to clear the tilted lock.
Now I\'m using paint marks so it looks a bit easier and it leaves each side once the wire reaches the end of the bed.
For screws, I am using self-drilling screws, although I find that they don\'t always work well, which is why I want to pre-drill the holes to a close size.
When I drill, I will also mark the holes of the wires that will go through the channel behind them.
Use the center drill as the guide hole and then select the correct size for the split sleeve.
Must be German
Burrs these holes so that you don\'t have the risk of damaging the casing when passing it through.
Just use the larger size bit or ladder bit and turn it by hand.
Now, the spacing of the trailer wiring tape together is about 16 \", which helps to keep all the tissue and make it easier to insert the split shell.
Do this until it is closed at the end of the bed.
Insert the wire into the housing according to the length of the tongue and bed.
In the y \'d section, this will continue to light a lamp and cut off the passage and the rest will be used on the other side.
I have to extend it to the ground wire.
The light is connected to the bed, but the tongue is a movable part and there may be a ground issue at the pivot point.
Therefore, the ground wire needs to be connected to the bed.
If you do not tilt the trailer then attach the ground wire to the tongue.
I welded the extension cord, using a Shrink tube filled with adhesive to protect the extension cord from moisture and match the existing 18 ga. wire.
Seal the split sleeve at the plug using tape.
This will keep the pieces away from the housing and prevent the wires from popping up.
In addition to this, electronic tape is also applied as we are wiring around the part of the split case.
This keeps the wires inside and helps prevent dirt from entering the inside.
Move to the installation, use these plastic ring clamps with screws and install the wires in place.
In terms of length, let the plug extend a few inches over the end of the hitch, so that it will have some movement when turning, but will not tighten, because it will put pressure on the wire, drag on the ground or unplug.
This can also be adjusted according to the length of your vehicle harness.
Be careful when tightening these screws, they distort the ring, so take a moment when tightening with an electric tool or a screwdriver.
The loops keep the lines tight so I was able to leave the access lines on the tilt lock so there would be no interference.
I also left the access line at the tilt pivot and I will show it further in the video.
Once at the end of the bed, insert the wire into the housing, which will be delivered to the driver.
Green and brown wires flow to the right side of the passenger or vehicle, yellow and brown to the left side of the driver or vehicle.
Trim the access line and sleeve, remove the wire from the sleeve, and then use the sleeve for the other side.
Send the exposed wires into the casing, which will go against the already installed casing and carry out tape fixing after fixing everything together.
Send the wire into the drill and on the outside skirt I used the terrace to drill a larger hole so it could hold the rubber gasket.
It looks cleaner and grabs the shell firmly.
For this I will weld the wire and you can also choose to use the waterproof connector.
As mentioned earlier, LED lights are installed in this trailer.
If you are using existing lights and the wires are dirty, they need to be cleaned in order to have enough connections and welding.
I also use shrink tubes filled with adhesive to waterproof the seal.
The wire is tied to the shell again.
Yellow represents the left turn signal and brake light, and green represents the right turn signal and brake light.
If you also want to install the gap light, I will attach a chart and add it at the end.
You may need to run the tests and refer to their charts when installing the lights.
The turn lights and brake lights should be brighter lighting and the stop lights or gap lights should be darker lighting.
Now, for the wire and housing, it is cut longer, especially the housing, because there are a few inches of wires from the lamp.
So the shell also helps protect the light braids.
The reason for the longer wires is that if anything needs to be adjusted, we can easily add an extra 6 inch to any modifications.
Maybe you want to increase the gap light, extend the plug length at the end of the tongue, turn off the light or something else that might require more wires.
As before, wrap the electronic tape section around this split ring case.
Just to give you a peak before I flip through the trailer.
You can see that the wires are fully encapsulated in the polygon split ring, there are enough rings to keep the wires in place and to prevent the wires from hanging down.
On the back, I\'m a few inches away from the back skirt to reduce the chance of gathering in the mud, or if the hook on the strap is attached to the bed, it won\'t accidentally get stuck on the wire.
There are also enough access lines at the tilt pivot.
I still have the ground wire installed.
To install the ground, this will be mounted directly to the bed of the frame member.
Use self-drilling screws with pre-
Drill holes, make sure there are enough wires if you use a tilt trailer.
Install the electrical contact circuit and may need to clean the installation surface.
You can even apply some liquid tape around the fixing point and the wires to prevent any moisture penetration.
Now, in order to flip the wheel of the trailer again, I need to do the sitting on the other side of the ground.
Drill holes for grommet using a stepped drill.
Install grommet and pull the wires.
Peel off the wire, weld the connection and add the Shrink tube.
Each lamp has its own grounding, shown by a white line directly attached to the bed on the lamp holder.
Close the ring End again with tape.
Finally, we have to test to make sure everything is OK.
Plug it into your vehicle and make sure that the brake lights, four-way flashlights, parking lights, and signal lights are being corrected.
If you have a problem, you may have a bad grounding, check the condition of the connectors and wires on the vehicle, or you may have a bad power cord connection.
As for the wiring diagram, there are several different versions here.
I base it on this wiring setup where it extends along the center and branches at the end of the bed, not on each side.
The first is the settings I made.
If you choose this option, the next step is to connect the deck lights.
The license plate light will turn off the parking LED Light module, the so-called brown wire, so you can pull the power from both sides.
The third picture is to use the gap light.
There is a clear light on each side and a larger clean light on the back.
These will also disappear from the brown or parking light line like the car card lights.
If you want to install the car Card LED Light module, then just run another extension from the Gap light.
Keep up with my latest tutorials and don\'t forget to keep an eye on my profile, be sure to check out my YOUTUBE page to meet all your DIY needs.
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