diy led light panel
This small remote control is now used in this panel.
It\'s used to adjust the intensity of the light to make things look really good, with some selling for about $25 and some that you might have used already.
It\'s not designed for plant lighting, so if you\'re here for plant lighting, you might be wrong. It\'s really for video recording and some camera work.
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We will start with this old Dell laptop with a 15-inch display.
You can also use the old flat panel monitors, but I like how thin the laptop monitors are, but they can be too thin to hold everything if they\'re not big enough.
I\'m basically going to scrap everything except the lid and glass, which is not actually glass, but maybe some sort of polycarbonate.
The Dell display is very easy to disassemble because most monitors use the same screws and can also be broken together.
They explored a little and separated.
The lid latch can come out, this lid latch has a nice little rare earth magnet that I can use elsewhere.
Now, I will remove the hinge but will probably reinstall it later.
I might put a stand on them.
The LCD panel is fixed inside with more screws, then pops up, and the rest of the support frame comes out, leaving only the plastic case.
There are several other parts in the LCD panel assembly that I want to salvage.
I don\'t know why this white tape is so sensitive, but it doesn\'t seem to scream in pain when I touch it.
Maybe I\'m in a good mood today.
The LCD panel consists of several layers of different materials.
The first is the actual glass LCD display, which I quickly cracked due to the frame no longer protecting it.
What I really want is this diffusion film that can be used to soften the light of the new LED Light module panel.
There are two more polarized films that are of little use to me and the second one that rewards a stronger diffusion film.
I also have a perfect use for this project. OK.
Now we can finally start assembling the lighting panel.
We started with the empty shell and I decided to put the metal frame back to help keep the plastic shell rigid.
At the same time the film is used as the backing of all LEDs that will be glued to the top.
This is required so that the LED does not short circuit on the metal frame.
I can then add a diffuser above the LED and then add the polycarbonate protector and the final cover on the plastic case.
LED electronics is very simple.
There is a 12 v dc power supply plugged into the dimmer controller and then the LED strip.
The dimmer even has some strange disco settings that allow the lights to flash in various modes.
This may be great for some sort of party mode, but it may have a seizure of your friend.
After putting the frame back into the plastic case, I added the white film to the bottom and then fixed it in place with some black tape.
In the next step, the tape is also wrapped on the metal frame to insulate it from the wire.
For the main power bus, I am using some scrap ground wire in some Romex lines.
After the event it would be easier to use a woven wire from the light line, as welding is easier, but this is laid around me.
Next Bend the wire so that it goes down the side of the panel, and then bend the second wire along the right side.
The two wires meet almost at the bottom.
It is important to make sure they are not in contact because one is a 12 volt power supply and the other is the ground.
Using some Thermal glue that is strategically placed, you can fix the wires in place.
Yes, the heat of the glue will soon pass through the copper, so be careful with your fingers!
The LED light strip comes with an extra power plug.
I just stripped the two ends and welded the 12 V red line to one common wire and the white ground wire to the other.
The wires are able to come out of the plastic case through the holes that the old LCD wire harness used to be.
The reel of the Led can be cut into three groups into length.
I just started cutting them to the right length.
Each part of the LED LED Light module strip has 12 and ground connections on each side.
For easy wiring, all you need to do is Weld from the 12 wires on the left to a bus, and then weld the other wire to the ground bus on the right side of the belt.
Before taking the time to weld all the belts, I tested the first one just to make sure all worked!
I would like to offset all the other stripes so that each line of LED doesn\'t get very close, but there really isn\'t enough room in this case to do that.
Finally, all the LEDs are in one column . . . . . . Almost straight.
I should probably draw a line on the back of the hill to help them stay consistent.
Once the panels are open, you can\'t really tell how bent they are.
There is also a quick test before the end.
I also took some of my lunch.
Work with more tape.
I could have exposed the LEDs but I wanted to protect them a bit.
After letting them run for a while, they didn\'t get too hot, so I\'m going to try to use it without ventilation.
I glued the heat of the discarded polycarbonate to the cover above.
Before the end, I re-
Attach the lid hinge as I can install it on some sort of base or make an attachment so it can connect to the threepod.
The lid card is back in place and fixed with the original screw.
I decided not to add any diffuser film and possibly tape them to the lid when needed.
Now I can hang it on my three
Use a wire pod.
This is a hack, but works very well!
So, that\'s it.
It takes a few hours to put this together.
It works very well and I am very satisfied with it.
Thanks for watching!
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