Here I will share how I can make some copper fixtures for the new kitchen I am building.
In addition to our house, the kitchen comes with a wooden frame and has a very high open cathedral ceiling.
There is a problem getting the light from the ceiling for various reasons, including it is really high and there is a fan on it.
When I design to add, I have included some beams that go through the middle of the space to install the lights, type TBD.
It\'s late now.
I evaluated various options including low
The voltage track/wire type of the lamp, but the price may be at least $2000 (
How much do I need?
After I built almost all the structures and kitchen cabinets myself, I decided it would be a good choice to do some lighting.
I was putting copper sinks and fixtures in the kitchen so I decided to keep the copper theme.
I designed a design with LED spotlight and ordered some parts from China to make the prototype and try it out.
You can see my first light. mounted-on-a-piece-of-scrap-wood trial.
The work was good and the LED Light module
was good, so I made one with copper scrap.
The effect is very good and looks good (
And approved by management)
So it\'s time to get into full production.
I need 25 fixtures so it\'s worth investing in some tools.
This manual includes some heavy tools for cutting and bending metal and works better on your fingers.
This also includes electricity, which, as far as we know, can kill you, burn your house, and cause erectile dysfunction in men, or even low doses of infertility.
So be careful, know what you\'re doing, don\'t be stupid, be safe, and so on. ETC.
Of course you need tools!
The first tool for metal processing is to cut the material.
I went to our favorite source of cheap tools, port freight, and bought a 30 in.
Cut, brake, slip roll coupons and sales for a little over $300.
After I take it home, uninstall and set it up (
I made it myself using Ancient Egyptian technology. the weight of the thing is about 300lb)
On a rolling cabinet, I tested it with some scrap copper scraps.
The \"brake\" function of the original curved metal is not very useful, which makes me a little frustrated, but anyway. . . .
I went back and got a proper brake for about $45 with coupons and sales on it.
This also requires some clips to keep
So I also bought a cheap clip.
These are actually very good for every $3.
We all know HF, but those seem to be enough, and I\'m in less than $400 for the sheet metal business right now. ! ! ! !
Make sure you screw these things down! ! ! !
Cut very heavily, if not, they are not working well and may fall off the bench, which is not a good thing.
It\'s really bad to like.
I bought 3 pieces of 2 \'X 10\' copper for my project.
I have measured all of my work requirements, made some layouts for all of them, and made sure it was enough, with only a little left and little waste.
I bought 16 ounces of copper at a local sheet metal store.
They use it for roofs and all kinds of things.
They had 4\'x 10\' sheets and they cut them in half for me and kept 2\'x 10\' sheets because it was the standard size they used and only charged me 1.
5, no charge.
A little more than $300, about $5, a little bit per square foot.
So I spent about $700 now. 750.
Cutting sheets are mainly included in marking the copper you want to cut, slide it into the cut and cut it on your mark.
I follow my layout to cut the appropriate parts with proper length and width to minimize waste.
This is easy, just need to use hand scissors for some of the smaller parts I need.
I marked it on my brake sheet (
Plywood on some saws)
I need to bend the place on the workpiece of various widths, and then when I go to bend them, transfer the mark to the workpiece.
I clip these parts on the brakes and notice how to bend them so they can be placed under the brakes --
After bending, bend next time.
The external fixture needs 4 bends, there is a 1/4 \"90 degree bend on the long edge, and then use ~ Bend the angle of 75 degrees to obtain a ladder.
I bent 1/4 degrees first, and then one bent 75 degrees, and the other bent 75 degrees, so the first bent 75 degrees.
I also made some test pieces with scrap, which are shown here.
After a little improvement on my technology, the production bending started.
Once I have a rhythm, about 65 pieces together are quick and reasonable. The hold-
The down part on the brake is about 2 \"wide, suitable for the part that is bent.
For more recent bends or boxes that may require other hold --
This will allow this piece to be placed under it.
I think there are some other pieces of metal.
You can see that the fixture is ladder-shaped and the channel is inserted in the main part.
These will keep the sockets and hidden wires.
It\'s time to turn off the lights!
In these pictures you can see the prototype fixture and how the fixture will be placed on the beam.
This is the only-one-
The fixings, like those on the outer counter, will have two attached fixings spanning the beams of the island.
They light very strongly with 3 bulbs, sitting about 6ft above the island and the countertop.
I made a small passage and put it in the main fixture connecting the lamp holder.
When the wire is connected to the housing of the main fixture, the wire goes through that channel.
The socket is Gu-
Prong bulbs that push and twist them.
I got these and the bulbs from Dealextreme, cheepcheep.
Place 3 sockets/lights in each 24 \"fixture, with good intervals, so that when all sockets are mounted on the above beams, they will even be on the island.
These screws are connected to 4x1/2 disc head metal sheet screws that are perfect for socket screw holes that you can get anywhere in your Lowes or 100 pack.
I drilled holes in the passage pieces to get the socket wires through and you can mark/drill them when you get the socket.
The holes are a bit rough, but large enough that the wires do not rub on the rough edges when the socket is connected.
I use the 18g LED Light module line and nut to connect the socket line to the main power cord that enters the box.
The LED bulb is only 6 or 7 w, so there is not much current.
The socket wire is about 24g.
Everything is properly closed and will be grounded.
There is a central support across the beam, covering the electrical box and connecting to the two lamps.
This is the same shape, sliding in about 6 inch of the fixtures.
I had to make some cuts to allow some brass screws to hold everything together. The beam is 3.
5 \"wide, just the size of the standard electric box.
As a result, the box is just cross-mounted on the beam, the center passage crosses the box, and the passage closes the box where the electrical connection is located.
I had to trim the box down to fit the ladder of the fixture.
The box will be screwed to the top of the beam, the power cord will enter and connect, and then the fixture will be screwed to them with screws through the center support and screwed into the box screw hole at the top.
You can see the complete assembly of the two fixtures assembled into the central channel.
Without a second fixture, this would be the case with a single fixture.
I will fix these parts together with brass screws and nuts, which will add copper.
I might have done some tailshots and haven\'t decided yet.
I ordered some.
10 LED bulbs with high lumen output, with various configurations and colors of Dealextreme to find out the most effective way.
I tried various combinations in prototype, color, output, and configuration and finally decided to use two of them. The white (
The bulbs look rough, especially for a warmer kitchen (I think).
But 2 yellow (
A white one seems to put some good mixture.
If I decided not to use white, I ordered enough yellow for the whole project.
The bulb will not be too hot, much less than similar halogen salts.
The fixtures are also fairly open and there is a radiator on the bulb so I think the whole fixture will stay cool.
I want to darken the copper a bit with a nice brown patina so it doesn\'t turn green.
Web search provides answers on how to do this.
I ordered this package for applying patina\'s chemicals to copper and will do some experiments on the scrap to see what works best.
Tried 3 or 4 different blends based on the recipe in the package to get what I liked.
I don\'t remember what I used in the end, but it gives a dark brown color.
It was interesting to look at the change in color, nothing happened at first, then I could see the reaction spreading over copper.
I only do the outside and leave the \"nature\" inside.
\"First of all, I cleaned all the pieces with soapy water, slightly roughed the surface with a washer sponge, removed all the oil and dirt and so on.
Rinse and dry with clear water.
Take a cheap brush, brush the chemical mixture outside and watch it do its own thing.
Sometimes I have to wear a second coat.
I cleaned all the pieces again with clear water, just to free from anything left in the process.
It is fairly uniform in color, but still a little uneven, which is a good effect.
It matches very well with the tile of our choice, not that any LED Light module is particularly close to the tile, but the decorator!
I assembled all the fixtures as described above and installed them on the kitchen counter and on the beams above the island.
They look really good in my new kitchen!
They make amazing light and I have 4 different circuits/switches--
Above the counter, above the island, above the building area, above the sliding door.
They fit very well with the colors, wood and beams and work very pleasant in the kitchen ---
Good to see while preparing, cooking and hanging out.
The price of bulbs and sockets is about $350, so I was involved in the whole project for about $1100, a large part of which is the tool for other things
So, if I find something that I like, it makes me less than half the cost of a factory fixture.
If these tools are not taken into account, the total cost is less than third or fourth.
All of this is not difficult, a little thinking, manufacturing and assembly.
Be careful in all electrical work, pay attention to grounding, make sure all connections are tight and the wires are safe.
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