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arduino + wifi, music responsive led light fixture
by：Demo
2020-08-02
The basic design is basically very similar to the ultra-aluminum illuminator developed by Brian nelstrom in 2007, except that the power supply is integrated into the LED board and there are no controllers.
Instead, the lamp brick 5 is designed to be controlled through a 5-wire interface.
24VDC is applied to the positive pole, GND is applied to the ground wire, and then each color of the LED is turned on as needed using three control lines using TTL level signals.
The lamp brick uses the same power circuit design as the ultra-aluminum illuminator.
The National Semiconductor LM3404 is used as the basis for a power circuit with a step-down converter to provide a constant 700 mA related to the input power voltage (18-36VDC).
LED in three colors on the motherboard--
Red, green and royal blue Rebel Luxeons for Philips Lumiled, with four color LEDs per board.
Pull each control pin down to ground to make the device \"off\" by default and connect to the five-pin connector for external control.
Next, more input protection is added to prevent user errors when connecting to the device.
Between the fuse, eight input protection resistors, three Zener diodes on the digital line, a large 5w Zener diode on the power input line and the full bridge rectifier, the user should be able to plug the wire back, simply connect the line voltage to the device, have noisy signal lines, or have other commonly annoying errors without completely destroying the board.
Of course, in the event of a catastrophic failure, there will be a bit of a difficult SMT fuse that needs to be removed and replaced to repair the circuit board, but, it\'s better than replacing all the tiny and expensive chips!
These circuit diagrams are available in Creative Commons-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.
0 licenses that have not been ported.
The complete design file, including the eagle file, can be used with permissions beyond this license. As you can see, the schematic diagram is quite simple, limiting the way the device fails.
LED board layout (below)
Designed to be royal blue and red LEDs are located on opposite sides of the pattern with four green LEDs in the middle.
This layout allows each electrical track on the PCB to be placed in a layer, and by using only SMT components, there is no electrical contact at all on the back of the board.
The advantages of the board with all traces in the single-layer layout are significant.
The biggest benefit is that because the Rebel LEDs are electrically isolated at the radiator, a continuous radiator on the back of the board can cool the LEDs very easily.
Secondly, there is no trace of electrical connection on the back of the circuit board, there will be no risk of short circuit through the aluminum shell inserted by the circuit board Bolt, no need to use electrical insulation but thermal conductivity adhesive at the bottom of the circuit board.
The bottom of the plate is shown below, where each visible hole (via)
Ground and connected to the LED radiator.
These board layouts are available in Creative Commons-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.
0 licenses that have not been ported.
The complete design file, including the eagle file, can be used with permissions beyond this license, or at the time of initial prototyping, A better hot air rework station was used to ensure that there was no residual stress during led welding, which could loosen the joints during thermal cycling.
This is by first putting a small amount of solder paste down on the heat pad and two pins, and then using two-
Output air nozzle.
A better small-scale production method is to use the welding template and the hot plate to return the entire plate at the same time, which is actually used in our production.
For an example of how to perform hot plate reflow welding, see instructions for extreme surface mounting welding.
This also helps to \"replace\" LEDs to their correct seats on the board, as surface tension from molten solder pulls the parts into position.
When the LEDs \"jump\" to the right, centered position, this is actually a fascinating thing (
This is very important for making them properly placed on optical devices! ).
The first step of this welding method is to place the solder paste on the plate using a syringe or template.
Next, I placed all LEDs and other components using tweezers.
Finally, it is time to heat the board on the hot plate so that the assembly is returned and replaced.
Then, the final step of the board assembly is to connect the optical elements-
In this case, the OPC1 style optical system from Dialight. They\'re great!
There are three tabs that can guide it to the right place (
It\'s good as long as your led is correctly centered from reflow soldering)
, They are stuck in the back so they stay where they are.
They also look fashionable to me.
A very attractive board!
To power on, I connect about 20VDC on the power supply and ground, and then touch the control pin with 5VDC (
Limited at the moment in case of digital lines! ).
Below you can see that I manually touch the control pins of the red, green and blue channels one at a time.
Assuming the optical efficiency of 1000, the final device emits about 80% lumens of light (i. e.
20% of the light is lost due to low optical and LED efficiency).
These special optics focus the beam to a 7-degree cone, even from this wide angle taken in the photo (
About 45 degrees)
Obviously you don\'t want to see this directly!
I turned it all white and basically replaced the light output of the 60w incandescent lamp top light in my room!
You can download the light brick 5 Digikey material list here.
This document can be uploaded to Digikey in order to easily get all the components needed to assemble your own light shield 7.
This material list does not include the Rebel luxled for Philips Lumileds, which can be ordered through future lighting solutions.
The design of the light shield 7 is loosely based on WiShield from async _ labs.
All design files can be downloaded from the download page of our website.
The light shield extends WiShield by adding an efficient 7.
5VDC switching voltage converter that allows Arduino and Maple to operate from a 24VDC power supply and uses the latest version of the WiFi module including an external antenna, as well as a 5-
Pin head with a 24VDC power supply from Arduino/Maple and a pass through to the PWM pin.
Finally, it includes a barrel-type power input plug to allow for a stronger connection and use of UL-approved external power supplies.
On-board high efficiency switch regulator using LM2675-
From National Semiconductor Corporation. This 7.
The 5VDC power supply is connected to the V pin on the Arduino/Maple board in order to supply power to the on-board 5 V/3.
3v regulator on the controller board.
The 5VDC regulated voltage is then brought back to the light cover for power supply to 3.
The 3VDC low voltage difference linear regulator supplies power to the chip MRF24WB0MB integrated WiFi module.
This module takes advantage of the US.
The Fl connector and the external FCC-approved antenna combination provide a way to easily communicate with Arduino/Maple via WiFi, even if the board is installed inside our metal box.
In addition, the light cover also integrates fuses and protective diodes to help prevent users from making mistakes when connecting to the motherboard power supply.
For reference, the distance between the Arduino UNO power connector and the USB connector sticking out the support board is marked.
The design makes our power connector should be more prominent than the Arduino UNO connector, when used with our chassis, when the Arduino power connector is blocked to prevent confusion, the USB and light shield power connectors will be exposed.
Publish circuit diagrams and board layouts based on creative sharing attributes-ShareAlike 3.
0 licenses that have not been ported.
Based on the work of asynclabs. com.
Permissions outside the scope of this license can be obtained in the complete design file, including the eagle file, which can be obtained in the welding template for placing a thin layer of lead-free solder paste on the board.
In order to obtain good reliability, we found that reflow soldering is mandatory.
Manual welding usually leads to overheating of the pad and poor solder joints of the WiFi module.
For more information on how to do reflow soldering, see the extreme surface mounting welding instructions.
In our case, we place solder paste using a welding template, place components, and then return all components at the same time using a desktop hot plate.
After reflux, through-
The hole assembly is welded on the board and the final result is as follows: the light shield 7 Digikey material list can be downloaded here.
This document can be uploaded to Digikey in order to easily get all the components needed to assemble your own light shield 7.
This bill of materials does not include parts ordered directly from microchips-
MRF24WB0MB and related antenna trf1001.
First, collect the parts needed to connect the Arduino UNO to the light cover 7 case back panel.
Use three black oxide gaskets and 4-in-process-
There are 40 holes in the box.
The gasket will cause the thread on the bracket to be long enough to reach the other side of the 1/8 thick aluminum and it is necessary to avoid the thread sticking out from the back of the housing.
Next, place the arduino on the stand and connect with a plastic gasket to protect the board, including 4-40 screws.
To allow the assembly of the lid, please keep the screws loose.
Slide the edge of the cover between the Arduino UNO and the back side.
The rectangular hole on the lid should be aligned with the USB port on the Arduino UNO.
After sliding the lid, tighten the two easily accessible screws with a screwdriver, and tighten the screws that are more difficult to touch near the USB port by hand.
When we do this, we must squeeze the boards together with the back so that there is no tight tension.
After tightening the screw, insert the fuse and barrel jack into the light cover 7 and face the rectangular hole on the side.
Make sure that the connectors are fully plugged into the Arduino UNO and that there are no pins missing the holes they are going to connect.
After installing Arduino UNO and Light Shield 7, the chassis can be turned off easily.
The groove on the flange will be aligned, the groove on the lip will be aligned with the hole on the lid, and the USB port and barrel Jack should stick out the rectangular hole.
First, the antenna mounting parts need to be modified for use with 1/8 \"aluminum.
They are designed for an aluminum case of 1/16, so snap-
In order to install on our case, the position of the clip is not correct.
The antenna package contains two different mounting parts, one with a hexagonal cross-section and the other with a circular shape.
We pick up the round, pry open the buckle-
Clip it with tweezers.
This left us with two buckles, an antenna and an installation piece with two snap holes.
The modified antenna mounting piece then slides into the large round hole opposite the rectangular hole of the USB and barrel jack.
The \"lip\" of the antenna mount should be towards a closer edge, so that when it is installed, the antenna is free to rotate in the right direction.
The mounting piece can be easily pushed into the 7/16 hole in the housing.
Since there is no longer a snap to prevent the debris from falling off, we put a small piece of epoxy on the stand on each side to secure it in place.
Next, the antenna line is connected from the outside of the housing to the inside of the housing.
The antenna is fixed in place by passing it through the mounting piece.
It will be stuck in place and should not be pulled back easily.
After pushing the antenna into place, the antenna can be bent using an external joint, and when mounted on the wall, the antenna can rotate 180 degrees, centered \"up \".
After threading (not included)
Through Moffatt\'s flexible arm and controller housing, the flexible arm is threaded into the 1/4 \"NPS threaded hole in the front center of the controller housing.
After passing through the hole, fix the flexible arm in place using the supplied gasket and hex nut.
Next, appropriate connectors must be used (such as 5-
Type MTA100 IDC connector.
The part we use for this purpose is 3-640440-
5 from Tyco Electronics.
The pin head, however, is standard 0. 1\", so any 0.
1 \"should fit the title.
Connect the wire to 5-using the connector-
Pin head on lamp shield 7. The antenna u.
The Fl connector can be connected to the WiFi module from the antenna wire.
This should be in place soon, but a bit tricky.
Next, six 1/4 \"6-
Close the case using 32 black oxide machine screws.
There is a screw in the middle of each flange (
Flexible arm side from case)
, And two screws entering the back lip to enter the side of the lid.
To ensure a good alignment, we first put these screws in loosely and tighten them.
To tighten, start with the screws on the flange and then make the screws on the lips to make sure the housing is closed all the way.
Because of the manufacturing method used to form a case (
Computer-aided bending
There are some inherent errors in the accuracy of bending.
To accommodate the tolerance problems inherent in the machining process, the screws are designed to match the grooves rather than the two holes so that there is more freedom to re-align the parts so that they match well.
Light brick 7 with housing is assembled by first attaching the filled light brick 7 to the back panel and the radiator.
This piece is made of anodized aluminum and therefore has a high thermal conductivity that helps prevent the LEDs on the board from overheating and damage.
The use of light brick 7 board without radiator will lead to frequent hot and cold cycles of solder joints and semiconductor chips, resulting in LED burning, LED brightness decreasing, due to the cyclic stress of solder joints, welding failure may result.
Connecting the light brick 7 to the back plate requires four 1/2 black machine screws, four plastic washers and four nuts.
To connect the LED board, pair the holes on the flush brick 7 board with the aluminum back panel and pass through the machine screws from the back panel side.
Next, fix the plate on the back plate using a plastic washer and a nut.
In order to achieve sufficient thermal conductivity and heat dissipation, the connection here must be very tight.
Attach the newly connected plate and back plate to the flexible arm, which should not have been attached to the light cover 7 housing and have wires (unterminated)exposed.
Tighten the flexible arm onto the board using the included plastic gasket and 1/4 NPS gasket.
After securely connecting the flexible arm to the back panel with the connected LED board, terminate the wire using an IDC connector (such as the MTA100 type connector for Tyco Electronics above.
This will insert the title exposed on the LED board.
To avoid seeing shadows from the wiring, try running the wiring along the circuit board below the lens to make up for any remaining slack.
You can also make this connection before sealing the controller housing and pull the slack in another direction through the flexible arm.
Connect the cylinder to the back plate with four 1/2 \"6-32 black screws
Again, the connection must be tight in order to ensure a good thermal conductivity.
The screws have some space to compensate for the round tolerance of the cylinder, so you should Center the cylinder as much as possible to avoid the lip on the back plate sticking out the edge of the cylinder.
Finally, connect the acrylic shield (
Produced by the other side of the anode alumina cylinder to prevent damage to the LED board.
With plastic gasket and 1/2 \"6-connection
32 screws to avoid cracking.
If it is tightened too far, using a metal washer will crack the acrylic shield.
In addition, if exposed to some solvents, acrylic will Frost, become opaque or break.
Make sure your solvent is compatible with acrylic before trying to clean the shield.
In general, in order to achieve excellent optical clarity in the spotlight beam itself, the shielding does not need to be very clean.
The firmware used in the Saiko5 WiFi fixture is open source and is available for free on our download page.
It is designed to run on arduino or maple amateur systems and integrate with the light shield WiFi expansion board.
The code was originally based on wic. Labs WiShield, however, improved stability by modification and added Open Sound Control library support that allows the board to receive commands via UDP in Open Sound Control format.
To use the firmware file, download the saiko5 repository and the WiShield repository and make sure that the WiShield repository is properly placed in the library directory of arduino-
Sketch this folder.
Arduino environment must be configured to use arduino-
Sketchbook folder as it is sketchbook to make sure the library is in the right place. In the arduino-
Sketchbook folder, located in/saiko5/firmware/arduino-
Sketchbook/, there are two project examples with the library.
Smooth _ fadessmooth _ fade is a very basic example of the arduino tutorial taken from the decline by David melissey.
In this simple program example, a method of changing the PWM output connected to a red, green and blue LED is demonstrated.
Define delaytime 5 define fadestep 1 define redPin 3 define greenPin 5 define bluePin 6 this code block sets the basic configuration variable.
RedPin, greenPin, and bluePin are defined as corresponding to the arduino/maple pins that are connected to the LED fixture via five pin heads on the light shield board.
If you do not use this firmware with the optical patch board, you can change the pins used here.
Fadestep is the brightness increment of each time step, and delaytime is the delay of each time step.
The rest of the Smooth _ fade program uses the analogWrite function to fade the from red to blue to set the PWM value for each output.
The Light brick folder contains two main files for the Saiko5 firmware, as well as the liblo and WiShield libraries found in the libraries folder.
The file LightBrick.
The partial differential equation contains all the basic configurations and startup including the network configuration.
In order to configure the device to connect to your own wireless network, the configuration information here must be updated.
The Setup function tells the light to initially light the low power red light, then the WiFi initialization, and once the WiFi initialization is complete and the device connection is successful, it briefly flashes blue before turning off the light output.
It then runs the WiF program to process packet reception. File udpapp.
C contains the actual event handler that receives UDP packets on port 2222.
In particular, the function udpapp_init that configures the UDP server.
The default setting tells the fixture to accept only UDP packets on port 2222 from IP address 192. 168. 1. 2.
This * must be changed if your actual server is located at another IP address, otherwise the lights will ignore the data sent to them.
After the network stack is initially configured to accept packets as needed, the parse_msg function actually handles parsing the received UDP packets.
First, the incoming packet is de-serialized using lo_message _ deserialize, which converts the UDP packet to an OSC message.
If the serialization fails (i. e.
Receive a bad package, or a non-
Received OSC package)
It did nothing.
Otherwise, the firmware pulls out the three floats connected to the OSC packet and puts them into fRed, fGreen, and fBlue floating values.
Next, write this value to the output pin using analogWrite.
In the case of Arduino, this value is made 8-
By multiplying by 0 xff and as a bit integer for unsigned char recasting.
However, the maple tree can also do 16-
Bit PWM, so this can be modified to multiply by 0 xFFFF for high resolution PWM.
Use of Maple in 16-
The Bit PWM mode allows the production of 281 trillion different colors, while the typical 8-17 00 million colors
Bit PWM display (
Most computer monitors).
According to our experience, 8-
Bit color usually looks \"good\" but 16-
Especially for low intensity colors.
To install the firmware, you need to install the Arduino or Maple development environment first.
For more information, see the instructions and basic usage information provided by the manufacturer.
In the case of the complete Saiko5 fixture, the arduino programmed USB port is exposed to the side of the shell for easy modification.
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Instead, the lamp brick 5 is designed to be controlled through a 5-wire interface.
24VDC is applied to the positive pole, GND is applied to the ground wire, and then each color of the LED is turned on as needed using three control lines using TTL level signals.
The lamp brick uses the same power circuit design as the ultra-aluminum illuminator.
The National Semiconductor LM3404 is used as the basis for a power circuit with a step-down converter to provide a constant 700 mA related to the input power voltage (18-36VDC).
LED in three colors on the motherboard--
Red, green and royal blue Rebel Luxeons for Philips Lumiled, with four color LEDs per board.
Pull each control pin down to ground to make the device \"off\" by default and connect to the five-pin connector for external control.
Next, more input protection is added to prevent user errors when connecting to the device.
Between the fuse, eight input protection resistors, three Zener diodes on the digital line, a large 5w Zener diode on the power input line and the full bridge rectifier, the user should be able to plug the wire back, simply connect the line voltage to the device, have noisy signal lines, or have other commonly annoying errors without completely destroying the board.
Of course, in the event of a catastrophic failure, there will be a bit of a difficult SMT fuse that needs to be removed and replaced to repair the circuit board, but, it\'s better than replacing all the tiny and expensive chips!
These circuit diagrams are available in Creative Commons-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.
0 licenses that have not been ported.
The complete design file, including the eagle file, can be used with permissions beyond this license. As you can see, the schematic diagram is quite simple, limiting the way the device fails.
LED board layout (below)
Designed to be royal blue and red LEDs are located on opposite sides of the pattern with four green LEDs in the middle.
This layout allows each electrical track on the PCB to be placed in a layer, and by using only SMT components, there is no electrical contact at all on the back of the board.
The advantages of the board with all traces in the single-layer layout are significant.
The biggest benefit is that because the Rebel LEDs are electrically isolated at the radiator, a continuous radiator on the back of the board can cool the LEDs very easily.
Secondly, there is no trace of electrical connection on the back of the circuit board, there will be no risk of short circuit through the aluminum shell inserted by the circuit board Bolt, no need to use electrical insulation but thermal conductivity adhesive at the bottom of the circuit board.
The bottom of the plate is shown below, where each visible hole (via)
Ground and connected to the LED radiator.
These board layouts are available in Creative Commons-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.
0 licenses that have not been ported.
The complete design file, including the eagle file, can be used with permissions beyond this license, or at the time of initial prototyping, A better hot air rework station was used to ensure that there was no residual stress during led welding, which could loosen the joints during thermal cycling.
This is by first putting a small amount of solder paste down on the heat pad and two pins, and then using two-
Output air nozzle.
A better small-scale production method is to use the welding template and the hot plate to return the entire plate at the same time, which is actually used in our production.
For an example of how to perform hot plate reflow welding, see instructions for extreme surface mounting welding.
This also helps to \"replace\" LEDs to their correct seats on the board, as surface tension from molten solder pulls the parts into position.
When the LEDs \"jump\" to the right, centered position, this is actually a fascinating thing (
This is very important for making them properly placed on optical devices! ).
The first step of this welding method is to place the solder paste on the plate using a syringe or template.
Next, I placed all LEDs and other components using tweezers.
Finally, it is time to heat the board on the hot plate so that the assembly is returned and replaced.
Then, the final step of the board assembly is to connect the optical elements-
In this case, the OPC1 style optical system from Dialight. They\'re great!
There are three tabs that can guide it to the right place (
It\'s good as long as your led is correctly centered from reflow soldering)
, They are stuck in the back so they stay where they are.
They also look fashionable to me.
A very attractive board!
To power on, I connect about 20VDC on the power supply and ground, and then touch the control pin with 5VDC (
Limited at the moment in case of digital lines! ).
Below you can see that I manually touch the control pins of the red, green and blue channels one at a time.
Assuming the optical efficiency of 1000, the final device emits about 80% lumens of light (i. e.
20% of the light is lost due to low optical and LED efficiency).
These special optics focus the beam to a 7-degree cone, even from this wide angle taken in the photo (
About 45 degrees)
Obviously you don\'t want to see this directly!
I turned it all white and basically replaced the light output of the 60w incandescent lamp top light in my room!
You can download the light brick 5 Digikey material list here.
This document can be uploaded to Digikey in order to easily get all the components needed to assemble your own light shield 7.
This material list does not include the Rebel luxled for Philips Lumileds, which can be ordered through future lighting solutions.
The design of the light shield 7 is loosely based on WiShield from async _ labs.
All design files can be downloaded from the download page of our website.
The light shield extends WiShield by adding an efficient 7.
5VDC switching voltage converter that allows Arduino and Maple to operate from a 24VDC power supply and uses the latest version of the WiFi module including an external antenna, as well as a 5-
Pin head with a 24VDC power supply from Arduino/Maple and a pass through to the PWM pin.
Finally, it includes a barrel-type power input plug to allow for a stronger connection and use of UL-approved external power supplies.
On-board high efficiency switch regulator using LM2675-
From National Semiconductor Corporation. This 7.
The 5VDC power supply is connected to the V pin on the Arduino/Maple board in order to supply power to the on-board 5 V/3.
3v regulator on the controller board.
The 5VDC regulated voltage is then brought back to the light cover for power supply to 3.
The 3VDC low voltage difference linear regulator supplies power to the chip MRF24WB0MB integrated WiFi module.
This module takes advantage of the US.
The Fl connector and the external FCC-approved antenna combination provide a way to easily communicate with Arduino/Maple via WiFi, even if the board is installed inside our metal box.
In addition, the light cover also integrates fuses and protective diodes to help prevent users from making mistakes when connecting to the motherboard power supply.
For reference, the distance between the Arduino UNO power connector and the USB connector sticking out the support board is marked.
The design makes our power connector should be more prominent than the Arduino UNO connector, when used with our chassis, when the Arduino power connector is blocked to prevent confusion, the USB and light shield power connectors will be exposed.
Publish circuit diagrams and board layouts based on creative sharing attributes-ShareAlike 3.
0 licenses that have not been ported.
Based on the work of asynclabs. com.
Permissions outside the scope of this license can be obtained in the complete design file, including the eagle file, which can be obtained in the welding template for placing a thin layer of lead-free solder paste on the board.
In order to obtain good reliability, we found that reflow soldering is mandatory.
Manual welding usually leads to overheating of the pad and poor solder joints of the WiFi module.
For more information on how to do reflow soldering, see the extreme surface mounting welding instructions.
In our case, we place solder paste using a welding template, place components, and then return all components at the same time using a desktop hot plate.
After reflux, through-
The hole assembly is welded on the board and the final result is as follows: the light shield 7 Digikey material list can be downloaded here.
This document can be uploaded to Digikey in order to easily get all the components needed to assemble your own light shield 7.
This bill of materials does not include parts ordered directly from microchips-
MRF24WB0MB and related antenna trf1001.
First, collect the parts needed to connect the Arduino UNO to the light cover 7 case back panel.
Use three black oxide gaskets and 4-in-process-
There are 40 holes in the box.
The gasket will cause the thread on the bracket to be long enough to reach the other side of the 1/8 thick aluminum and it is necessary to avoid the thread sticking out from the back of the housing.
Next, place the arduino on the stand and connect with a plastic gasket to protect the board, including 4-40 screws.
To allow the assembly of the lid, please keep the screws loose.
Slide the edge of the cover between the Arduino UNO and the back side.
The rectangular hole on the lid should be aligned with the USB port on the Arduino UNO.
After sliding the lid, tighten the two easily accessible screws with a screwdriver, and tighten the screws that are more difficult to touch near the USB port by hand.
When we do this, we must squeeze the boards together with the back so that there is no tight tension.
After tightening the screw, insert the fuse and barrel jack into the light cover 7 and face the rectangular hole on the side.
Make sure that the connectors are fully plugged into the Arduino UNO and that there are no pins missing the holes they are going to connect.
After installing Arduino UNO and Light Shield 7, the chassis can be turned off easily.
The groove on the flange will be aligned, the groove on the lip will be aligned with the hole on the lid, and the USB port and barrel Jack should stick out the rectangular hole.
First, the antenna mounting parts need to be modified for use with 1/8 \"aluminum.
They are designed for an aluminum case of 1/16, so snap-
In order to install on our case, the position of the clip is not correct.
The antenna package contains two different mounting parts, one with a hexagonal cross-section and the other with a circular shape.
We pick up the round, pry open the buckle-
Clip it with tweezers.
This left us with two buckles, an antenna and an installation piece with two snap holes.
The modified antenna mounting piece then slides into the large round hole opposite the rectangular hole of the USB and barrel jack.
The \"lip\" of the antenna mount should be towards a closer edge, so that when it is installed, the antenna is free to rotate in the right direction.
The mounting piece can be easily pushed into the 7/16 hole in the housing.
Since there is no longer a snap to prevent the debris from falling off, we put a small piece of epoxy on the stand on each side to secure it in place.
Next, the antenna line is connected from the outside of the housing to the inside of the housing.
The antenna is fixed in place by passing it through the mounting piece.
It will be stuck in place and should not be pulled back easily.
After pushing the antenna into place, the antenna can be bent using an external joint, and when mounted on the wall, the antenna can rotate 180 degrees, centered \"up \".
After threading (not included)
Through Moffatt\'s flexible arm and controller housing, the flexible arm is threaded into the 1/4 \"NPS threaded hole in the front center of the controller housing.
After passing through the hole, fix the flexible arm in place using the supplied gasket and hex nut.
Next, appropriate connectors must be used (such as 5-
Type MTA100 IDC connector.
The part we use for this purpose is 3-640440-
5 from Tyco Electronics.
The pin head, however, is standard 0. 1\", so any 0.
1 \"should fit the title.
Connect the wire to 5-using the connector-
Pin head on lamp shield 7. The antenna u.
The Fl connector can be connected to the WiFi module from the antenna wire.
This should be in place soon, but a bit tricky.
Next, six 1/4 \"6-
Close the case using 32 black oxide machine screws.
There is a screw in the middle of each flange (
Flexible arm side from case)
, And two screws entering the back lip to enter the side of the lid.
To ensure a good alignment, we first put these screws in loosely and tighten them.
To tighten, start with the screws on the flange and then make the screws on the lips to make sure the housing is closed all the way.
Because of the manufacturing method used to form a case (
Computer-aided bending
There are some inherent errors in the accuracy of bending.
To accommodate the tolerance problems inherent in the machining process, the screws are designed to match the grooves rather than the two holes so that there is more freedom to re-align the parts so that they match well.
Light brick 7 with housing is assembled by first attaching the filled light brick 7 to the back panel and the radiator.
This piece is made of anodized aluminum and therefore has a high thermal conductivity that helps prevent the LEDs on the board from overheating and damage.
The use of light brick 7 board without radiator will lead to frequent hot and cold cycles of solder joints and semiconductor chips, resulting in LED burning, LED brightness decreasing, due to the cyclic stress of solder joints, welding failure may result.
Connecting the light brick 7 to the back plate requires four 1/2 black machine screws, four plastic washers and four nuts.
To connect the LED board, pair the holes on the flush brick 7 board with the aluminum back panel and pass through the machine screws from the back panel side.
Next, fix the plate on the back plate using a plastic washer and a nut.
In order to achieve sufficient thermal conductivity and heat dissipation, the connection here must be very tight.
Attach the newly connected plate and back plate to the flexible arm, which should not have been attached to the light cover 7 housing and have wires (unterminated)exposed.
Tighten the flexible arm onto the board using the included plastic gasket and 1/4 NPS gasket.
After securely connecting the flexible arm to the back panel with the connected LED board, terminate the wire using an IDC connector (such as the MTA100 type connector for Tyco Electronics above.
This will insert the title exposed on the LED board.
To avoid seeing shadows from the wiring, try running the wiring along the circuit board below the lens to make up for any remaining slack.
You can also make this connection before sealing the controller housing and pull the slack in another direction through the flexible arm.
Connect the cylinder to the back plate with four 1/2 \"6-32 black screws
Again, the connection must be tight in order to ensure a good thermal conductivity.
The screws have some space to compensate for the round tolerance of the cylinder, so you should Center the cylinder as much as possible to avoid the lip on the back plate sticking out the edge of the cylinder.
Finally, connect the acrylic shield (
Produced by the other side of the anode alumina cylinder to prevent damage to the LED board.
With plastic gasket and 1/2 \"6-connection
32 screws to avoid cracking.
If it is tightened too far, using a metal washer will crack the acrylic shield.
In addition, if exposed to some solvents, acrylic will Frost, become opaque or break.
Make sure your solvent is compatible with acrylic before trying to clean the shield.
In general, in order to achieve excellent optical clarity in the spotlight beam itself, the shielding does not need to be very clean.
The firmware used in the Saiko5 WiFi fixture is open source and is available for free on our download page.
It is designed to run on arduino or maple amateur systems and integrate with the light shield WiFi expansion board.
The code was originally based on wic. Labs WiShield, however, improved stability by modification and added Open Sound Control library support that allows the board to receive commands via UDP in Open Sound Control format.
To use the firmware file, download the saiko5 repository and the WiShield repository and make sure that the WiShield repository is properly placed in the library directory of arduino-
Sketch this folder.
Arduino environment must be configured to use arduino-
Sketchbook folder as it is sketchbook to make sure the library is in the right place. In the arduino-
Sketchbook folder, located in/saiko5/firmware/arduino-
Sketchbook/, there are two project examples with the library.
Smooth _ fadessmooth _ fade is a very basic example of the arduino tutorial taken from the decline by David melissey.
In this simple program example, a method of changing the PWM output connected to a red, green and blue LED is demonstrated.
Define delaytime 5 define fadestep 1 define redPin 3 define greenPin 5 define bluePin 6 this code block sets the basic configuration variable.
RedPin, greenPin, and bluePin are defined as corresponding to the arduino/maple pins that are connected to the LED fixture via five pin heads on the light shield board.
If you do not use this firmware with the optical patch board, you can change the pins used here.
Fadestep is the brightness increment of each time step, and delaytime is the delay of each time step.
The rest of the Smooth _ fade program uses the analogWrite function to fade the from red to blue to set the PWM value for each output.
The Light brick folder contains two main files for the Saiko5 firmware, as well as the liblo and WiShield libraries found in the libraries folder.
The file LightBrick.
The partial differential equation contains all the basic configurations and startup including the network configuration.
In order to configure the device to connect to your own wireless network, the configuration information here must be updated.
The Setup function tells the light to initially light the low power red light, then the WiFi initialization, and once the WiFi initialization is complete and the device connection is successful, it briefly flashes blue before turning off the light output.
It then runs the WiF program to process packet reception. File udpapp.
C contains the actual event handler that receives UDP packets on port 2222.
In particular, the function udpapp_init that configures the UDP server.
The default setting tells the fixture to accept only UDP packets on port 2222 from IP address 192. 168. 1. 2.
This * must be changed if your actual server is located at another IP address, otherwise the lights will ignore the data sent to them.
After the network stack is initially configured to accept packets as needed, the parse_msg function actually handles parsing the received UDP packets.
First, the incoming packet is de-serialized using lo_message _ deserialize, which converts the UDP packet to an OSC message.
If the serialization fails (i. e.
Receive a bad package, or a non-
Received OSC package)
It did nothing.
Otherwise, the firmware pulls out the three floats connected to the OSC packet and puts them into fRed, fGreen, and fBlue floating values.
Next, write this value to the output pin using analogWrite.
In the case of Arduino, this value is made 8-
By multiplying by 0 xff and as a bit integer for unsigned char recasting.
However, the maple tree can also do 16-
Bit PWM, so this can be modified to multiply by 0 xFFFF for high resolution PWM.
Use of Maple in 16-
The Bit PWM mode allows the production of 281 trillion different colors, while the typical 8-17 00 million colors
Bit PWM display (
Most computer monitors).
According to our experience, 8-
Bit color usually looks \"good\" but 16-
Especially for low intensity colors.
To install the firmware, you need to install the Arduino or Maple development environment first.
For more information, see the instructions and basic usage information provided by the manufacturer.
In the case of the complete Saiko5 fixture, the arduino programmed USB port is exposed to the side of the shell for easy modification.
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