stereo speakers with synched led lighting

This is a guide to gradually building a pair of two.
Stereo speakers with LED in sync with audio.
The LED can be turned off when the music does not require lighting.
Use transparent acrylic in these speakers so you can see the entire interior (
With LED).
My intention is to make this guide more of an inspiring guide than a series of strict steps.
Of course, I will give me the basic steps to build me, but there are a lot of changes that are possible for projects like speakers.
I want to give you as much creative freedom as possible.
The explanation is to build a speaker.
For a pair, simply repeat the process.
I suggest reading the whole instructions before starting.
The structure will be divided into three main parts: the housing, the circuit and the components.
Another awesome speaker build note can be found here: it\'s my first note, so any and all feedback will be very helpful and appreciated.
Please feel free to leave me a message if you have any questions and I will do my best to help you.
All you need is a speaker.
Just repeat the second time.
Tools: Dremel and BitsPower drill and BitsT-SquareRuler (T-square works)Level (T-Square)
Refill (T-
There is usually a hidden inside the square)
Composite soldering iron and welding of wood glue for shell (
Note that the size will vary depending on the driver you choose)
: 3/4 \"x3/4\" Pine Beams1/4 \"Oak Boards1/4\" ya acrylic board (I used Lexan�)
6 angle brackets and wooden ironing boards for the circuit 8 bolts and locks Nuts6 furniture enclosure: 1 Woofer1 tweetter16 led (
I used 2 sets of 8 LEDs, but you can mix the colors if you want! )
Two transistors (I used 2n4401)
1 Speaker terminal insulated wire, each speaker 3\' should be OK, but it depends on how many wires the speaker is (
Rule 12 should be fine)
* Various wire coils * Various polypropylene capacitors * various low
Inductor resistance * These parts are used for crossOver (
It separates the high and low frequencies of the audio), the L-Pad (
Adjust the volume of each speaker)
And this series. Notch Filter (
Control the peak at the resonant frequency of the driver).
Or you can buy a pre-made one (
It turns out that this is usually cheaper).
The first step in any project is planning.
When it comes to the construction of speakers, there are many factors to consider.
In essence, however, it all boils down to the driver\'s choice.
I bought my driver and other parts from the partsExpress (
I highly recommend partsExpress.
The shipping speed is fast and the price is good, you can get very good technical advice from them.
You need every speaker no matter where you buy the driver: 1 bass speaker (
Low pitch Drive)1 Tweeter (
High pitch Drive)
You should consider the impedance when looking at the drive (
How much resistance the driver provides)
Sound pressure level (
Driver, how loud the Driver is)
And frequency range.
Ideally, you want the bass and treble speakers to have the same impedance, similar SPL, and overlapping frequency ranges.
Cross-split the input of the audio source into high and low frequencies of a single drive, but the split is progressive.
With a large overlap, it is easier to find the crossover at a low overlap frequency
Ends of tweeters and tweeters
The end of the bass speaker.
You should also consider getting an L-pad. L-
Pads change the volume of each drive independently, so if you want more bass and lower treble then you can adjust your L-
Do this for you.
All of these parts are available at partsexpress, which I got: $36.
82 EA Wood GW-8PC-30-
4 8 \"heavy bass horn 4 Ohm EA Goldwood GT-
525 1 \"soft dome tweeter 8 ohm EA Square Speaker terminal RL speaker wire 12 KW clear 50 feet.
The impedance of the bass speaker is 4 ohms, and the impedance of the treble speaker is 8 ohms.
I was a little careless when I ordered, so I had to correct this at the intersection.
I would suggest choosing the treble and bass speakers with impedance matching.
Of course, everything is gathered together in circles.
However, the shape and size of the housing is also important and affects the sound of the speaker.
It is reasonable to say that cube has the largest loss of sound quality, while sphere has the largest loss of sound quality.
I use a rectangular prism for simplicity (
Like most speakers).
The size of the housing should change with the size of the drive.
This beautiful table, along with the other speaker instructions I mentioned earlier, gives the approximate volume of certain drive sizes. Woofer Size---
Shell Volume4 \"----------------. 25 -. 39 cubic feet6 \"---------------. 35 -. 54 cubic feet8 \"---------------. 54 -.
96 cubic feet10 \"---------------. 96 -1. 8 cubic feet12 \"---------------1. 8 -3. 5 cubic feet15 \"---------------3. 5 -
8 cubic feet or, you can use a special calculator to help you determine the appropriate volume of the shell.
The enclosure is almost an open process and how you want it to look depends on you.
As long as you remember the total volume and the size of the front (
Make sure the driver is healthy! )
You should be fine.
I did my 16 \"H x 10\" W x 10 \"D = 0.
926 cubic feet, which is the bigger end for an 8 \"driver.
However, these are external dimensions, so the volume is actually a bit small.
I found that the easiest way to build a shell is to use 1 \"x 1 \"(
Or 3/4 \"x 3/4\" in this case \")
Beam for structure, 1/4 oak board for panel and wood glue for fixing all materials together.
The beam is first bonded to a square so that it extends along the boundary, as shown in figure 3rd.
Once dry, place a side panel and stick the base to both ends as shown in figure 4.
Don\'t forget to add a vertical support beam.
When it dries, the side may begin to tilt or twist to one side.
To fix this, I put the opposite side panel on the top for the time being (5th picture)
And in my t-
Make sure everything goes well.
Next, you need to cut a hole in the back plate of the wire patch panel.
The mine needs a circular hole, but not all end plates are the same.
Of course, you should cut a hole that fits your wire patch panel.
To avoid the lack of other tools, I used a dremel to cut out the hole.
Pictures 6 to 14 effectively record the process.
When installing the Wire Patch board, be sure to use metal screws (
It is best to have low resistance--
My measurements are about 2 ohms)
And make sure they go all the way through and stretch out the other side of the board.
We will use these as a convenient way for electricity to flow from the outside of the box to the inside.
The Led will be connected to the exposed screw and the power supply will be connected to the outside.
In this way, it is much easier to turn off the led or replace the battery that supplies it.
Finally, once the Wire Terminal board is installed, stick the back plate to the speaker and let the shell dry.
You should have a nice box right now, with the front open and a wire patch panel on the back.
If you want your speaker to have a clear front then use acrylic to do this step.
If you want a normal speaker, use wood.
Anyway, the process should be quite similar.
The budget was quite tight when I bought my acrylic and didn\'t fully understand the impact of the speaker gap.
I want to use Lexan because I know it is very strong and durable (
Considered to be 100 times more impact resistant than glass of similar thickness)
But in order to buy two sheets of 10 \"x 16\" I had to buy a large and expensive sheet.
To save money, I decided to buy two 10 \"x 8\" sheets per speaker to form a 10 \"x 16\" sheet.
I would not recommend doing this because it will end up causing more trouble than it deserves and could cause some loss of audio quality.
The process of cutting holes for the drive is very similar to cutting holes in the Wire Terminal board. Using a t-
Square, mark the center of your circle.
Keep in mind that the driver needs to be far enough from the edge so that the acrylic will not crack so that the driver will not hit the wood frame (
In my case, this means that I need at least 1 \"boundary).
After marking the center, draw the circle using a compass set to the appropriate radius.
You may notice that pencil lines are hard to see, especially on the plastic cover of the acrylic resin.
For the convenience of cutting, I track the circle with a stroke pen.
This cuts the protective plastic on the acrylic, allowing me to peel it off (picture 3).
The circle is fine now-
Define, cut out the circle using dremel (pictures 4-6).
Finally, put the driver in the hole (
Or behind them, if they do)
And mark where the screw holes should be.
Again, use the t-that you used to be useful-
Make sure everything is level.
Once the hole is marked, drill it out carefully.
Now smooth everything down and archive any rough/sharp edges.
In order for the led to be lit synchronously with the Speaker, we will use a transistor.
Transistors act as electronic gateways.
When a small amount of current flows into the intermediate pin (the base)
The current is allowed to flow out from one pin (the collector)to another (the emitter).
We will use the current in the audio to open the door and let the current flow to the LED.
The led lights up whenever a sound is made.
Each drive has an unit, so the lighting for the bass and treble will be separate.
In my speakers, the bass is blue LEDs and the treble is green LEDs.
To do this, you need LEDs, transistors, and wires. www. ledshoppe.
Com offers good led at a very reasonable price.
To build an unit, start with 8 LEDs first and bend their leads apart (picture 2-4).
Write down which terminals of the LED are positive and which terminals are negative, because it is more difficult to determine their length when which leads are not adjacent.
In most LED, the smaller half of the actual LED is positive, while the larger part of the light emitted is negative.
Once all LEDs are ready, collect them into a bundle and make sure the leads are all in the right direction.
Use electronic tape to tape the lead together.
Repeat this process for the other 8 LEDs.
Now you should have two led bundles.
Once your LED bundle is ready, take a pnp transistor and carefully separate the leads.
The transistor in the picture is flatside up.
As shown in Figure 10, use soldering iron to weld transistors, LED bundles and wires together12 (
Message me if you need any welding tips or search online).
After that, tape is used to ensure that all exposed metals are covered.
Repeat this process for the second LED bundle.
In order to divide the audio signal into two parts: high signal and low signal, crossover is necessary.
If you decide to build a crossover, then it needs to be customized according to the overlap range of your tweeter and bass speaker.
Here you can find a very useful tool: enter the relevant information, this calculator will create a schematic diagram for you and list all the necessary parts.
If you really decide to do it yourself, I suggest you use the 3rd order.
When purchasing and manufacturing cross-switches, it is important to remember to add resistors and inductors to connect them in series.
To add capacitors, connect them in parallel.
If you decide to purchase a crossover speaker, you need to make sure that it is within the overlap range of the tweeter and the bass speaker.
When you purchase specific crossover units, the details of their use should be included.
To install acrylic, I decided to support it with an angle with a furniture pad.
As shown in Figure 2-
4. Place a piece of furniture liner on the side supported by the angle and cut off the excess part.
Place the mounts where you want them on the fence (
No acrylic in the middle).
In the case of not compressing the liner, mark it on the shell where the screw should go.
Now drill guide holes for screws.
Now, carefully move the cross into the shell.
It might be a good idea to make sure the crossover is done so that when the speaker is moved, it doesn\'t move around.
Now, pick up your LED system and connect the wires as shown in figure 6.
The signal wires should be parallel to the drives they correspond.
The two LED systems are powered from the same power supply, so weld the mains to a bare screw on the wire patch panel.
Next, weld the power ground wire of the led to another screw.
To be safe, tape the screws with electrical tape (picture 7).
Now, whatever you like, install the LED bundle in the case.
To power the led, apply a current on the Screw (
With wires on the other side)
From outside (picture 9).
Now the speakers are almost finished!
Simply install the drive onto the acrylic board using the bolt and the lock nut, and then connect the drive to the crossover.
All that is left now is to close the box.
This can be a bit tricky, so it\'s helpful for someone to help you here.
Carefully lift the acrylic board up and align it to the rest of the shell.
When someone puts it there, bring the angle bracket you made, fix them on the speaker with wood screws and the previously made pilot holes.
The furniture pad should be tightened and compressed, and the acrylic sheet should be securely secured between the holder and the rest of the housing. Congrats! You\'re done!
Wait, not yet.
Test your speakers again to make sure everything is OK.
If not, unscrew the bracket and try to find out the problem that has occurred since the last Test of the system.
Once the cleaning is done, screw the bracket and acrylic resin and test again.
If everything is normal. . Congrats!
Now you\'re done!
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