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ceiling led light
by：Demo
2020-07-30
The goal of this instructable is to use mainly aluminum parts and LED strips to create a custom ceiling light with a modern look.
I did mine because I wanted to use continuous ceiling lights with only two hanging points in an L-shaped corridor.
The quantity or length of the material depends on your needs.
The 3D printer is used for printing end caps, suspension brackets and translucent diffuser.
If you don\'t, hats and brackets can be handmade with other materials, but I can\'t give any advice on the diffuser. . .
The choice of aluminum is to ensure good rigidity while keeping the weight low (
You have to hang it on your head).
It is a good radiator that helps the strip last longer.
strips can be cut into pieces in some predetermined places, usually every 5-10cm.
Make sure you buy a strap for your chosen design with enough cut marks.
I highly recommend buying strips with sticky surfaces to help with assembly.
Finally, if the wires inside the fixture are loose, it is much safer to use 12 v bars instead of 110 or 230 V.
The first is to choose the shape of the ceiling lamp.
You can choose a simple straight line or be more creative.
I had to assemble at least two aluminum parts due to my L-shaped corridor;
I then chose to add some extra parts to the two main parts for a more enjoyable design.
You can design on paper or, like me, create a simple view of the corridor with a 3D tool.
To be honest, I modified my initial design while building the lights. . . twice.
Once you have a general idea of the design, you can measure the length of the desired aluminum section and LED stripe.
In my case, I need a length of about 7 to 8 m.
In order to get enough lightning, you must know the surface to be lit, and the use of the room, because the required light intensity will vary.
Here are some numbers: I had to light up a corridor so I chose 100 lux.
The corridor is about 5 m² wide, which means I have to make sure there are at least 100*7. 5=750 lumens.
It is easy to have 8 m lumens on the 750 LED stripe;
I actually only bought 5 m pieces to cut and distribute along the aluminum section.
This requires more soldering, but allows me to reduce the cost and get the right luminosity.
An important aspect of the 12 v LED stripes is: check the power they need and make sure the converter is able to power them.
For example, the power of my stripe is 24 w and it runs on 12 V, so it needs 24 W/12 V = 2A.
First, put the part on the floor according to your design.
This will enable you to better visualize the end result and adjust the design.
Please note that I have chosen to work on my floor as I do not have enough work space elsewhere.
If you have to/can work elsewhere, then often put the parts back on the floor in order to detect errors early!
Place some tape marks on the floor to help you keep the aluminum part in place during your work.
Use vertical lines to know where the Hang point is.
Then place these parts, modify your design and cut them.
It is better to cut the longest part first, because a slight cutting angle error will cause a large offset at the end.
If so, you will be able (try to)
Correct the angle of other parts.
If several parts of your design are required to be connected together, use a fixed lugs.
Position and pierce the two holes, assemble the parts, and then drill the other holes using the lugs as the guide.
In this way, you will minimize the risk of gap errors.
If your design contains a cross section (like mine)
, Use a saw to cut the wire path through the U section Wall and smooth all the edges of the cut.
Drilling holes at each hanging point (
I have two hanging points)
, Plus one by one through the power cord.
Upon completion, grab the part of the hanging point and check the balance of the Assembly.
It is likely to tip;
This means that you have to put \"crutch\" on the other side to keep the assembly level.
For those of you who don\'t have the same power outlet as me, this part may be useless.
My standard IEC 61995-1:2005;
I remodeled an old backup power inlet and installed a good connector for my lights.
I turn on the power and replace the main socket pin with a white line.
I also replaced the output wire with a shorter one and painted the box white so it blends in with my ceiling.
I shortened the IEC connector and welded the white line of the power supply.
I printed a small hat to make things better.
If you need it, the file for this cap is included in the file for this structure.
The result is a good power supply with an IEC connector on one side and an output line on the other.
If a 12 v strip is used, connect the two light strips to the power cord using the connection Terminal (Wago alike).
If you use 110-
230 v LED Light Engine strip, connecting two wires to the main socket, it is very important to twist the ground wire (yellow-green wire)
To the aluminum part.
If the ground wire is not connected, you may get an electric shock if the wire is loose.
If needed, cut the strips into pieces distributed along the section, and then weld the wires to connect each piece together.
Pay attention to polarity because the LED will not work if a connection is reversed.
Don\'t forget to use heat-
Shrink jacket to protect welding and avoid short circuit!
After the layout is completed, stick the LED strip inside the aluminum section.
For a better look, I polished the aluminum part with cloth and some polishing cream.
Grab the part of the hanging point and check the balance of the Assembly.
It is likely to tip;
This means that you have to put \"crutch\" on the other side to keep the assembly level.
I printed the hanging parts and crutches using ABS 3D and inserted the nuts in it to be able to screw them into the aluminum part.
I believe that these parts are easily made of lacquer wood (
20x150mm).
Screw the crutches to the aluminum section, then screw the hanging part to the ceiling, and then screw the parts to the hanging part.
Connect the power supply and check if all the LED is working properly.
The light diffuser I use is a 3D printed part made of transparent PETG.
They may have been built with transparent paper, but I don\'t have any suggestions in this case.
I hope this statement is clear and helpful.
Please do not hesitate to leave a comment if you have a question!
There are a wide variety of which are scientifically tested to have positive effects on the ability to ac led modules. led pcb board About Us is one of them.
We would appreciate your immediate attention to About Us.
Demo Photoelectric Technology (Wuxi) Co., Ltd. believes that the average profitability will be sufficient.
We utilize our expertise to develop services that add value at each phase of theAbout Us development cycle. We evaluate and implement new strategies in response to changing customer profiles and market conditions.
I did mine because I wanted to use continuous ceiling lights with only two hanging points in an L-shaped corridor.
The quantity or length of the material depends on your needs.
The 3D printer is used for printing end caps, suspension brackets and translucent diffuser.
If you don\'t, hats and brackets can be handmade with other materials, but I can\'t give any advice on the diffuser. . .
The choice of aluminum is to ensure good rigidity while keeping the weight low (
You have to hang it on your head).
It is a good radiator that helps the strip last longer.
strips can be cut into pieces in some predetermined places, usually every 5-10cm.
Make sure you buy a strap for your chosen design with enough cut marks.
I highly recommend buying strips with sticky surfaces to help with assembly.
Finally, if the wires inside the fixture are loose, it is much safer to use 12 v bars instead of 110 or 230 V.
The first is to choose the shape of the ceiling lamp.
You can choose a simple straight line or be more creative.
I had to assemble at least two aluminum parts due to my L-shaped corridor;
I then chose to add some extra parts to the two main parts for a more enjoyable design.
You can design on paper or, like me, create a simple view of the corridor with a 3D tool.
To be honest, I modified my initial design while building the lights. . . twice.
Once you have a general idea of the design, you can measure the length of the desired aluminum section and LED stripe.
In my case, I need a length of about 7 to 8 m.
In order to get enough lightning, you must know the surface to be lit, and the use of the room, because the required light intensity will vary.
Here are some numbers: I had to light up a corridor so I chose 100 lux.
The corridor is about 5 m² wide, which means I have to make sure there are at least 100*7. 5=750 lumens.
It is easy to have 8 m lumens on the 750 LED stripe;
I actually only bought 5 m pieces to cut and distribute along the aluminum section.
This requires more soldering, but allows me to reduce the cost and get the right luminosity.
An important aspect of the 12 v LED stripes is: check the power they need and make sure the converter is able to power them.
For example, the power of my stripe is 24 w and it runs on 12 V, so it needs 24 W/12 V = 2A.
First, put the part on the floor according to your design.
This will enable you to better visualize the end result and adjust the design.
Please note that I have chosen to work on my floor as I do not have enough work space elsewhere.
If you have to/can work elsewhere, then often put the parts back on the floor in order to detect errors early!
Place some tape marks on the floor to help you keep the aluminum part in place during your work.
Use vertical lines to know where the Hang point is.
Then place these parts, modify your design and cut them.
It is better to cut the longest part first, because a slight cutting angle error will cause a large offset at the end.
If so, you will be able (try to)
Correct the angle of other parts.
If several parts of your design are required to be connected together, use a fixed lugs.
Position and pierce the two holes, assemble the parts, and then drill the other holes using the lugs as the guide.
In this way, you will minimize the risk of gap errors.
If your design contains a cross section (like mine)
, Use a saw to cut the wire path through the U section Wall and smooth all the edges of the cut.
Drilling holes at each hanging point (
I have two hanging points)
, Plus one by one through the power cord.
Upon completion, grab the part of the hanging point and check the balance of the Assembly.
It is likely to tip;
This means that you have to put \"crutch\" on the other side to keep the assembly level.
For those of you who don\'t have the same power outlet as me, this part may be useless.
My standard IEC 61995-1:2005;
I remodeled an old backup power inlet and installed a good connector for my lights.
I turn on the power and replace the main socket pin with a white line.
I also replaced the output wire with a shorter one and painted the box white so it blends in with my ceiling.
I shortened the IEC connector and welded the white line of the power supply.
I printed a small hat to make things better.
If you need it, the file for this cap is included in the file for this structure.
The result is a good power supply with an IEC connector on one side and an output line on the other.
If a 12 v strip is used, connect the two light strips to the power cord using the connection Terminal (Wago alike).
If you use 110-
230 v LED Light Engine strip, connecting two wires to the main socket, it is very important to twist the ground wire (yellow-green wire)
To the aluminum part.
If the ground wire is not connected, you may get an electric shock if the wire is loose.
If needed, cut the strips into pieces distributed along the section, and then weld the wires to connect each piece together.
Pay attention to polarity because the LED will not work if a connection is reversed.
Don\'t forget to use heat-
Shrink jacket to protect welding and avoid short circuit!
After the layout is completed, stick the LED strip inside the aluminum section.
For a better look, I polished the aluminum part with cloth and some polishing cream.
Grab the part of the hanging point and check the balance of the Assembly.
It is likely to tip;
This means that you have to put \"crutch\" on the other side to keep the assembly level.
I printed the hanging parts and crutches using ABS 3D and inserted the nuts in it to be able to screw them into the aluminum part.
I believe that these parts are easily made of lacquer wood (
20x150mm).
Screw the crutches to the aluminum section, then screw the hanging part to the ceiling, and then screw the parts to the hanging part.
Connect the power supply and check if all the LED is working properly.
The light diffuser I use is a 3D printed part made of transparent PETG.
They may have been built with transparent paper, but I don\'t have any suggestions in this case.
I hope this statement is clear and helpful.
Please do not hesitate to leave a comment if you have a question!
There are a wide variety of which are scientifically tested to have positive effects on the ability to ac led modules. led pcb board About Us is one of them.
We would appreciate your immediate attention to About Us.
Demo Photoelectric Technology (Wuxi) Co., Ltd. believes that the average profitability will be sufficient.
We utilize our expertise to develop services that add value at each phase of theAbout Us development cycle. We evaluate and implement new strategies in response to changing customer profiles and market conditions.
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